Yesterday we were on lock down so all missions outside the FOB were cancelled. So my morning was spent catching up on emails and working on the stories we’ve been able to capture so far. Up to this point our trip has been a complete success. The stories in each province we’ve visited have been captivating. The diversity in landscapes, people and PRT life has been eye-opening. Each character, with their unique personality and experiences, has been captured on tape and will make for an interesting, in-depth look into the human spirit, the care and concern for a people and their land, and the incredible work that is taking place at the ground level here in Afghanistan.
My afternoon was spent interviewing the PRT military commander, our USDA ag advisor and Sgt. Kelley of the PRT Civilian Affairs Team. He was our mission organizer and planned our daily activities each evening. Along with the USDA ag advisor, he was instrumental in us getting everything we needed and more. Thanks to the commander’s decision to allow us to walk off the base over to the bank of the Panjshir River, across from the FOB, our closing interviews were done in a beautiful location as the sun slowly settled over the western mountains. With our mujahedeen guards standing guard over us on the rolling hills near the river, we were able to close out our story of Panjshir province in the most appropriate, idyllic way. Hanging out by the water, on a perfect afternoon with wispy clouds scattered throughout the azure blue sky. I was going to miss this place. I was going to miss the bucolic scenery, the relaxed atmosphere, the friendly outgoing soldiers and civilians as well as the braying donkeys that would let us know they were there several times during the day (and during our interviews). I will miss the snow capped mountains, the Panjshir River as it rushed through the valley filled with glacial run-off, and I will miss the intimacy of being able to deal with the locals as a person not a presence. I will miss Panjshir, the Lion’s Den.
Today we were welcomed by another perfect morning as the wind rushed through the valley out of the north. The air was crisp and clear and I had no problem seeing the surrounding mountains in all their glory. The landscape looked even greener this morning and I’m not sure if it really was or my mind was just making an imprint of what lay before me in a more intense hue so I would never forget this place. I said goodbye to my comfortable little B Hut and the donkey across the river bid me adieu with one last bray that echoed of the walls of the FOB. Dave and I said our goodbyes to all the great people we met and thanked the leadership of the FOB for their hospitality, coordination and complete cooperation with everything we needed. I informed them that with the release of the documentary their wonderful little secret of Panjshir would be revealed. With a twinkle of pride in their eyes they smiled and said they welcomed the telling of their story to the world.
We convoyed to the HLZ (helicopter landing zone) which was the same soccer field where we had arrived 5 days earlier. It was interesting to watch the set up of a remote LZ. As the vehicles took their positions around the perimeter of the field, “flags” were placed on the goalposts as wind socks, a marker was placed on one vehicle so it could be spotted from the air and as the chopper approached, flying very low through the valley, smoke was released to signal the pilots as to our exact location. The wind blew the yellow smoke across the field and into the southern valley. As the helicopter hovered before landing, the spinning rotors kicked up clouds of dust and sent dirt and any loose objects flying in our direction. We ducked behind the lone vehicle on the field and waited for a signal to go. As soon as the skids settled on the dusty pitch, the gunners ran out collected our bags, rushed us onto the bird and we were up and away – no time wasted on the ground. The pilot dipped the nose of the helicopter and raced to the northern end of the open field then banked hard to the right swooped over the still smoky field and we were off to the city of Kabul with a wave out the window to our new friends from FOB Lion.
We flew over some of the most fertile land in all of Afghanistan, lush green fields of farmland stretching from the base of the mountains all the way to the horizon ahead. Before too long, Bagram Air Base was on our left side and as we passed, a giant C130 lifted off from one of the runways. Soon the landscape changed dramatically. It was drier and the mountains became more rocky and rugged with large canyons. Walled villages looking like medieval castled cities began to appear more frequently and this meant we were approaching the city. The gunners on both sides of the aircraft scanned the ground below. I wasn’t sure what they were trained to look for but I was glad their eyes were in constant motion. In a little over 30 minutes we were touching down in Kabul with its pollution and orange brown sky blocking out the views of the surrounding mountains. Boy, am I glad I have the memories of the past few days - paradise in Panjshir!
We have one night in Kabul and then it’s on to our final Forward Operating Base (FOB). I am curious as to what lies ahead - the new characters, a new landscape, a new FOB and another PRT. Three down, one to go…
My afternoon was spent interviewing the PRT military commander, our USDA ag advisor and Sgt. Kelley of the PRT Civilian Affairs Team. He was our mission organizer and planned our daily activities each evening. Along with the USDA ag advisor, he was instrumental in us getting everything we needed and more. Thanks to the commander’s decision to allow us to walk off the base over to the bank of the Panjshir River, across from the FOB, our closing interviews were done in a beautiful location as the sun slowly settled over the western mountains. With our mujahedeen guards standing guard over us on the rolling hills near the river, we were able to close out our story of Panjshir province in the most appropriate, idyllic way. Hanging out by the water, on a perfect afternoon with wispy clouds scattered throughout the azure blue sky. I was going to miss this place. I was going to miss the bucolic scenery, the relaxed atmosphere, the friendly outgoing soldiers and civilians as well as the braying donkeys that would let us know they were there several times during the day (and during our interviews). I will miss the snow capped mountains, the Panjshir River as it rushed through the valley filled with glacial run-off, and I will miss the intimacy of being able to deal with the locals as a person not a presence. I will miss Panjshir, the Lion’s Den.
Today we were welcomed by another perfect morning as the wind rushed through the valley out of the north. The air was crisp and clear and I had no problem seeing the surrounding mountains in all their glory. The landscape looked even greener this morning and I’m not sure if it really was or my mind was just making an imprint of what lay before me in a more intense hue so I would never forget this place. I said goodbye to my comfortable little B Hut and the donkey across the river bid me adieu with one last bray that echoed of the walls of the FOB. Dave and I said our goodbyes to all the great people we met and thanked the leadership of the FOB for their hospitality, coordination and complete cooperation with everything we needed. I informed them that with the release of the documentary their wonderful little secret of Panjshir would be revealed. With a twinkle of pride in their eyes they smiled and said they welcomed the telling of their story to the world.
We convoyed to the HLZ (helicopter landing zone) which was the same soccer field where we had arrived 5 days earlier. It was interesting to watch the set up of a remote LZ. As the vehicles took their positions around the perimeter of the field, “flags” were placed on the goalposts as wind socks, a marker was placed on one vehicle so it could be spotted from the air and as the chopper approached, flying very low through the valley, smoke was released to signal the pilots as to our exact location. The wind blew the yellow smoke across the field and into the southern valley. As the helicopter hovered before landing, the spinning rotors kicked up clouds of dust and sent dirt and any loose objects flying in our direction. We ducked behind the lone vehicle on the field and waited for a signal to go. As soon as the skids settled on the dusty pitch, the gunners ran out collected our bags, rushed us onto the bird and we were up and away – no time wasted on the ground. The pilot dipped the nose of the helicopter and raced to the northern end of the open field then banked hard to the right swooped over the still smoky field and we were off to the city of Kabul with a wave out the window to our new friends from FOB Lion.
We flew over some of the most fertile land in all of Afghanistan, lush green fields of farmland stretching from the base of the mountains all the way to the horizon ahead. Before too long, Bagram Air Base was on our left side and as we passed, a giant C130 lifted off from one of the runways. Soon the landscape changed dramatically. It was drier and the mountains became more rocky and rugged with large canyons. Walled villages looking like medieval castled cities began to appear more frequently and this meant we were approaching the city. The gunners on both sides of the aircraft scanned the ground below. I wasn’t sure what they were trained to look for but I was glad their eyes were in constant motion. In a little over 30 minutes we were touching down in Kabul with its pollution and orange brown sky blocking out the views of the surrounding mountains. Boy, am I glad I have the memories of the past few days - paradise in Panjshir!
We have one night in Kabul and then it’s on to our final Forward Operating Base (FOB). I am curious as to what lies ahead - the new characters, a new landscape, a new FOB and another PRT. Three down, one to go…
Panjshir truly sounds idyllic from your pictures and descriptions. An oasis in such a war-torn country. Tremendously enjoying the stories. I feel like I'm seeing scenes from the documentary before it's even been released!
ReplyDeleteAs the wife of the PRT Panjshir commander, I want to thank you for putting your story out there for all to share and learn from. It's a shame that mainstream media doesn't do the same.
ReplyDeleteJennifer