After a very light breakfast and a call to Jason, I packed up the gear with Dave K and headed out to meet our ride. This morning we were accompanied by the USDA Administrator and his staff who were going up to another province for an official visit. We packed up in an up-armored van and headed to the airpark. There we saw our friends who check us in and they immediately recognized us, or more accurately, our gear. They are always intimidated by Dave because he is so protective of his camera equipment. We are traveling on a small Bell helo again, all by ourselves and our body guards, of course. We say goodbye to the other group and head off across the airfield to the chopper. This time we are given our briefing by a British gunner who goes over what is now very familiar information to Dave and me. We mount up and in no time we are above Kabul heading north toward our new destination beyond the snow covered mountain peaks ahead of us.
We travel up and over the mountains and find ourselves traveling along a beautiful valley between two impressive mountain ranges. After about 40 minutes flying time we begin to descend into a lush green area running parallel to a river. In the distance I see two columns of yellow smoke rising from what looks like a soccer field. As we get closer I realize that the smoke is intended for us and the LZ is a soccer field. Once we land and disembark, being careful of the still spinning rotors, we are greeted by two SUV's, a couple soldiers, a mujahedeen soldier and our USDA PRT host for the next few days. Even before we gather all our bags the helicopter is already up and heading back to the city. We load up and head toward the military base which is about 10 minutes up the road. On the ride up, my host explains that this is how they travel here. The provincial governor is a former Mujahedeen and his militia is the protection for the base. We are in a very autonomous area and the safety here is based on the reputation of the governor and this area that has withstood the Soviet invasion in the 80’s and the Taliban in the 90’s. Everyone that has tried to occupy this area has been turned back. Because of the relative safety of our FOB (Forward Operations Base) I can say that we are in Panjshir, a beautiful, relatively new province in the north. The national hero Masoud who was assassinated in 2001 was from this area and his image is everywhere. All his posters and photos remind me of Bob Marley.
We enter the base and I am surprised to see no high walls or ultra secure perimeter. There is wire fencing and the mujahedeen guards are very evident at all the check points. We remove our body armor and we’re told we won’t need to wear it during our stay here. We keep it close at all times but it is a relief to know I won’t have to carry the extra 30lbs on my person. We get the proverbial tour and introductions. The size of the base makes it a very short tour. It is almost like a small outpost. Our host takes us to our “B Hut” where our hooches are located. Again, everything is so relative. I am actually excited to see that we have little individual wooden cells with a bed and closet. The smell of fresh cut wood is in the air. This building is obviously very new and its just open studs and plywood. As bare as it is I still appreciate the “privacy”. A very short walk behind the B Hut is the showers and toilets. I ask why it’s called a B Hut, feeling like the accommodations are like a bee hive with tiny compartments, 8 in all. But my civilian host doesn’t have an answer so I’m going with the “bee hive” theory.
We have lunch in the small, intimate mess hall and like all the other bases we’ve visited, the food is very good. After lunch we’re invited to go out on a short mission to deliver some tree cuttings to a demonstration farm within sight of the FOB. We drive over in two armored SUV’s, escorted by our host, two US soldiers, two mujahedeen soldiers and an interpreter. No HUMVEES, MWRAPS or big gun toting military escorts (the mujahedeen do carry AK’s). The scenery around us is just spectacular. We are in a valley right next to a flowing river with majestic snow covered mountains looking down on us. Dave K is so enamored by the surroundings and is excited to be shooting in this environment. Then we get the invitation to do something Dave K has begged for since we’ve been in country. We are told we can go in to the neighboring village and interact with the locals. What a treat it is for us to walk amongst the locals without a large military presence or us wearing IBA gear. The interpreter asks if its okay if we film the vendors in the marketplace and no one objects. Of course there are the usual curious children and elders but everyone is smiling and welcoming. I have absolutely no fear being here and I must be honest – it is the first time I have felt this way since arriving in country. This place is like an oasis in a desert of conflict and fear.
What a difference a day makes. Yesterday there is the fear of bombs detonating and today I walk with Afghanis who are genuinely happy though curious to see me.
Finally as we head back to the base we make a last stop by the river to get some video and photos. As we pull up, there next to the road are some shepherds with a flock of sheep and goats. The scene is one that could have taken place 1000 years ago. I stroll down to the river bank and as I take in all the beauty that surrounds me my heart is heavy once again. I just can’t help thinking about all the death, destruction and attempts at conquering the people of this area that took place not very long ago. The valley is scattered with the rusted shells of soviet tanks. They lay stripped bare and scavenged over time. But they lay where the so many Russian soldiers took their last breath.
I quickly come back to the present when we’re told it’s time to head back. I am looking forward to the next few days. We will be venturing throughout this valley and the surrounding villages to get the success stories of the region. I imagine that each day my eyes will be opened to more beautiful landscapes as well as beautiful people.
Till next time….
We travel up and over the mountains and find ourselves traveling along a beautiful valley between two impressive mountain ranges. After about 40 minutes flying time we begin to descend into a lush green area running parallel to a river. In the distance I see two columns of yellow smoke rising from what looks like a soccer field. As we get closer I realize that the smoke is intended for us and the LZ is a soccer field. Once we land and disembark, being careful of the still spinning rotors, we are greeted by two SUV's, a couple soldiers, a mujahedeen soldier and our USDA PRT host for the next few days. Even before we gather all our bags the helicopter is already up and heading back to the city. We load up and head toward the military base which is about 10 minutes up the road. On the ride up, my host explains that this is how they travel here. The provincial governor is a former Mujahedeen and his militia is the protection for the base. We are in a very autonomous area and the safety here is based on the reputation of the governor and this area that has withstood the Soviet invasion in the 80’s and the Taliban in the 90’s. Everyone that has tried to occupy this area has been turned back. Because of the relative safety of our FOB (Forward Operations Base) I can say that we are in Panjshir, a beautiful, relatively new province in the north. The national hero Masoud who was assassinated in 2001 was from this area and his image is everywhere. All his posters and photos remind me of Bob Marley.
We enter the base and I am surprised to see no high walls or ultra secure perimeter. There is wire fencing and the mujahedeen guards are very evident at all the check points. We remove our body armor and we’re told we won’t need to wear it during our stay here. We keep it close at all times but it is a relief to know I won’t have to carry the extra 30lbs on my person. We get the proverbial tour and introductions. The size of the base makes it a very short tour. It is almost like a small outpost. Our host takes us to our “B Hut” where our hooches are located. Again, everything is so relative. I am actually excited to see that we have little individual wooden cells with a bed and closet. The smell of fresh cut wood is in the air. This building is obviously very new and its just open studs and plywood. As bare as it is I still appreciate the “privacy”. A very short walk behind the B Hut is the showers and toilets. I ask why it’s called a B Hut, feeling like the accommodations are like a bee hive with tiny compartments, 8 in all. But my civilian host doesn’t have an answer so I’m going with the “bee hive” theory.
We have lunch in the small, intimate mess hall and like all the other bases we’ve visited, the food is very good. After lunch we’re invited to go out on a short mission to deliver some tree cuttings to a demonstration farm within sight of the FOB. We drive over in two armored SUV’s, escorted by our host, two US soldiers, two mujahedeen soldiers and an interpreter. No HUMVEES, MWRAPS or big gun toting military escorts (the mujahedeen do carry AK’s). The scenery around us is just spectacular. We are in a valley right next to a flowing river with majestic snow covered mountains looking down on us. Dave K is so enamored by the surroundings and is excited to be shooting in this environment. Then we get the invitation to do something Dave K has begged for since we’ve been in country. We are told we can go in to the neighboring village and interact with the locals. What a treat it is for us to walk amongst the locals without a large military presence or us wearing IBA gear. The interpreter asks if its okay if we film the vendors in the marketplace and no one objects. Of course there are the usual curious children and elders but everyone is smiling and welcoming. I have absolutely no fear being here and I must be honest – it is the first time I have felt this way since arriving in country. This place is like an oasis in a desert of conflict and fear.
What a difference a day makes. Yesterday there is the fear of bombs detonating and today I walk with Afghanis who are genuinely happy though curious to see me.
Finally as we head back to the base we make a last stop by the river to get some video and photos. As we pull up, there next to the road are some shepherds with a flock of sheep and goats. The scene is one that could have taken place 1000 years ago. I stroll down to the river bank and as I take in all the beauty that surrounds me my heart is heavy once again. I just can’t help thinking about all the death, destruction and attempts at conquering the people of this area that took place not very long ago. The valley is scattered with the rusted shells of soviet tanks. They lay stripped bare and scavenged over time. But they lay where the so many Russian soldiers took their last breath.
I quickly come back to the present when we’re told it’s time to head back. I am looking forward to the next few days. We will be venturing throughout this valley and the surrounding villages to get the success stories of the region. I imagine that each day my eyes will be opened to more beautiful landscapes as well as beautiful people.
Till next time….
You missed your calling:)--maybe a writer? Sounds like you are getting use to the choppers. Nice pics!
ReplyDeleteTake care